You may have come across the term 'hair porosity' when exploring hair care products. Porosity refers to your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, which is a useful thing to know when choosing the correct products for your hair.
It is important to note that neither high porosity nor low porosity hair is better, as each has pros and cons. Ideally hair should be somewhere in the middle. And yes your hair's porosity can change depending on circumstances.
Low porosity hair typically looks smooth and shiny due to the cuticles being flat and tightly sealed, and having a strong hydrophobic lipid barrier. But because the cuticles lie flat, it is difficult for moisture and nutrients to penetrate the shaft. However once water has gone in, it stays in and is retained well. Therefore low porosity hair may take long to dry once wet. Products may not absorb well and low porosity hair can be prone to product buildup or feeling 'coated' or greasy.
On the other hand, high porosity hair has a lifted or damaged cuticle structure and a weakened lipid barrier, which readily allows moisture in. But moisture is not well retained so the hair can dry out or appear frizzy. When wet, the hair can feel quite elastic but may also be weaker, break or tangle more easily. High porosity hair responds well to conditioners, more-lipid rich treatments and product layering.
Product strategy
Biologically intelligent hair care will target the individual's needs and follow a strategy designed for the particular hair type. Let's remember some statistics common to all hair, which we take into account when developing our specialised hair care products.
pH: healthy hair is approximately pH 4.5 - 5.5 which is slightly acidic. Therefore it is important for hair products to be within this acidic range. Products with an alkaline pH will lift the cuticle, increasing porosity (which is why bleaching and relaxing products have a high pH, designed to lift hair color and break hair bonds). Acidic products assist in keeping the cuticle closed with reduced porosity. We ensure all our products are within the correct pH range for optimum hair health.
The hair shaft has a natural protective lipid layer, providing lubrication, protection, and hydrophobicity. The majority of this lipid layer consists of a fatty acid called 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (or simply, 18-MEA) . Harsh products, chemical treatments or even UV rays can damage this layer, making hair feel brittle, rough and difficult to manage. However, we can mimic this fatty acid in our hair care products and replenish the lipid layer on the hair's surface.
And let's not forget the scalp. Keeping products within a good pH range for skin (your scalp is skin after all) keeps the microbiome and skin barrier healthy and balanced. Compromised scalp may lead to itchiness, irritation, poor follicle health (which can lead to hair loss or decreased hair growth) and even dandruff. We use only gentle and microbiome-friendly ingredients in our products.
Low Porosity
All hair is naturally hydrophobic and non-polar to a degree, but low porosity hair is particularly non-polar and water resistant.
Products therefore need to be lightweight and more polar so as to penetrate but not produce a greasy buildup effect. Added humectants can attract moisture, with penetration enhancers and smaller moleculed actives for improved diffusion into the tightly sealed cuticles. Excessive layering of polymers, silicones and heavier emollients should be avoided. Lightly alkaline or heat activated products can be used as pre-treatments in order to open the cuticles and force moisture and nutrients in before being sealed again.
Our penetration-focused product range for low porosity hair includes: an effective but non-stripping sulfate-free shampoo, a lightweight and absorbing conditioner, and an occassional-use nourishing treatment mask.
High Porosity
High porosity hair is more polar and hydrophilic.
The strategy for high porosity hair should aim to improve the lipid barrier with cationic conditioners and biomimetic replenishments, occlusives and lipids, utilize film forming actives for reduced moisture loss, incorporate lots of proteins for building strength and structure, and have good acidic pH levels to close cuticles.
Our retention-focused product range for high porosity hair care includes: a pre-shampoo hydrating detangling gel, a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo, a highly substantive and protein rich conditioner, and a frequent-use nourishing treatment mask.
If you have neither high nor low porosity hair, but are somewhere inbetween (most people are), then don't worry, our hair products will work just as well for you.
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